Art Deco jewelry fascinates as much as it intrigues. With its geometric forms, noble materials, and timeless elegance, these iconic pieces never go unnoticed. But how can you tell the difference between a genuine Art Deco jewel and the many creations merely “inspired” by the style? Here is a comprehensive guide to help you identify authentic pieces from this major artistic movement.

A Visually Distinctive Style

An Art Deco jewel is unlike any other. Its structure is rooted in precision: strict lines, symmetry, and geometric motifs. Chevrons, interlocking circles, straight lines, and sharp angles dominate. Forget the natural curves of Art Nouveau—Art Deco is all about control, order, and deliberate design.

Authentic pieces from the era (roughly 1915–1935) prioritize graphic impact. Even the most luxurious jewels remain visually restrained, always striving for harmony and balance.

A true Art Deco jewel should instantly evoke modernity, architecture, and sophistication. If a piece feels too baroque, chaotic, or unbalanced, it's likely a pastiche or a modern reinterpretation that strays from the original codes.

The Typical Materials of Art Deco Jewelry

One of the most telling signs of authenticity lies in the materials used. Real Art Deco jewels were crafted from precious metals:

• Platinum — highly prized for its strength and neutral hue

• White gold — more accessible but equally elegant

• Silver — often used in mid-range or stylistic pieces

As for gemstones, they also speak volumes:

• Diamonds cut in baguette, marquise, or emerald shapes — to emphasize linearity

• Onyx, jade, coral, mother-of-pearl, emeralds, rubies — often used in bold but refined combinations

• Colored enamel, especially black or blue — used to accentuate form

Typical color pairings like black & white, vivid green, or deep red are hallmark combinations. A jewel that’s too flashy, multicolored, or overly ornate is unlikely to be a faithful representation of the original style.

Craftsmanship & Technique: The Details That Matter

Art Deco is also a story of craftsmanship and precision. Authentic pieces from this period typically feature:

• Clean settings — often bead or channel set

• Fine, even engraving

• Subtle yet solid clasps

Even costume jewelry from the era (made with plated metals or cut glass) followed high standards of finish and detail.

Take time to inspect soldering, the back of the piece, symmetry, and weight. A jewel that feels too light, looks molded, or only appears symmetrical from the front is likely a modern reproduction.

Hallmarks, Maker’s Marks, and Provenance: How to Verify Authenticity

Antique jewelry, especially pieces made from gold or silver, usually bears official hallmarks attesting to the metal’s quality and origin.

• In France, for example, hallmarking has been required since the 19th century:

  • The eagle’s head for 18k gold

  • The Minerva head for sterling silver

• Maker’s marks help identify the workshop or individual artisan

• Some jewels also feature house signatures (Cartier, Boucheron, etc.) or discreet engravings

That said, the absence of a hallmark doesn’t necessarily mean a piece is fake—especially for imports or jewels that have been altered. However, their presence is always a reassuring sign of legitimacy.

If you own an old piece that you suspect might be Art Deco, you can:

• Have it professionally appraised

• Compare it to period archives or catalogs

• Study the styles used between 1915 and 1935 (see the characteristics listed above)

Reproductions and Modern Interpretations

Many contemporary designers are inspired by Art Deco today. They borrow its motifs, shapes, and sometimes even its materials—but the jewels themselves are new, adapted to today’s tastes and constraints.

These are not counterfeits. They’re homages. In fact, that’s exactly what we offer in our boutique: jewels inspired by Art Deco, created with the same dedication to balance, clean lines, and elegance.

👉 Explore our contemporary Art Deco collection